Madeira's Laurel Forest
— The Ancient Wonder
That Survived the Ice Age

The photograph above was taken in Fanal — a plateau in northwest Madeira where trees that were already old when Columbus sailed to America still stand in the morning mist. These are not ordinary trees. They are survivors of a world that no longer exists: a prehistoric forest that once stretched across all of Southern Europe, wiped out by the Ice Ages, preserved only here on a small Atlantic island.

This is the story of the Laurisilva — Madeira's laurel forest, one of the most extraordinary natural environments on Earth.

20 Million Years of History

Long before humans existed — long before the Atlantic Ocean took its current shape — laurel forests covered much of Southern Europe and the Mediterranean basin. During the warm, humid Miocene epoch (roughly 5 to 23 million years ago), these subtropical forests stretched from what is now Portugal to modern-day Turkey.

Then came the Ice Ages. Over millions of years, as temperatures plummeted and ice sheets advanced south from the poles, the laurel forests retreated. Slowly, inexorably, they disappeared from mainland Europe. The last survivors found refuge on islands far out in the Atlantic — the Canaries, the Azores, and Madeira — where the ocean kept temperatures mild enough to allow the ancient ecosystem to persist.

On Madeira, the laurel forest not only survived — it thrived. Protected by the island's rugged terrain, its steep northern valleys and remote highlands, the Laurisilva remained essentially untouched for millions of years. When Portuguese sailors first sighted the island in 1419, they found a place almost entirely covered in dense, ancient forest — so much so that they named it "Madeira," the Portuguese word for wood.

What Happened After Humans Arrived

The arrival of Portuguese settlers in the 1420s began a transformation of Madeira's landscape. The island's rich volcanic soils were ideal for agriculture — sugar cane, vines, bananas — but these crops required cleared land. Over the following centuries, much of the forest at lower altitudes was felled, burned, and replaced with terraced farmland.

Historical records from the 16th century describe the laurel forest as still covering nearly the entire island, from sea level to the highest peaks. By the 19th century, the lowland and southern forest had been almost entirely lost. What survived was what was too steep, too remote, and too inaccessible for agriculture — the northern slopes and central highland plateaus.

By the 20th century, conservationists began to recognise the extraordinary nature of what remained. In 1982, much of the surviving forest was incorporated into the Madeira Natural Park. On 2 December 1999, UNESCO inscribed the Laurisilva of Madeira on the World Heritage List — recognising it as an outstanding universal treasure belonging to all of humanity.

What Makes the Laurisilva Unique

The Laurisilva is not a single forest — it is an entire ecosystem, comprising several distinct forest types depending on altitude, humidity, and exposure. Four tree species dominate and give the forest its character:

• Laurus novocanariensis (Laurel / Louro) — the namesake tree, an evergreen with glossy leaves and small black berries. At lower elevations, these trees grow tall and straight. On the plateau, shaped by wind and cloud, they become twisted and gnarled — the famous "fairy tale" forms of Fanal.
• Ocotea foetens (Til / Stinkwood laurel) — the most majestic tree of the Laurisilva, growing up to 40 metres tall. The largest surviving specimens are centuries old and form the cathedral-like canopy of the deep forest.
• Persea indica (Vinhático) — a cousin of the avocado tree, with sweet-scented flowers and valuable timber. Once heavily logged, now protected.
• Apollonias barbujana (Barbusano) — found at lower, drier elevations. Slower-growing and long-lived.

Beneath and between these trees, the forest floor is a dense tapestry of ferns, mosses, and liverworts — over 100 species of bryophytes alone, many of them endemic to Madeira. The humidity is intense; the forest literally drips with moisture captured from Atlantic clouds.

The Forest's Role in Madeira's Water System

The Laurisilva is not just beautiful — it is essential. The forest acts as Madeira's natural water tower. The dense canopy and moss-covered branches capture moisture directly from clouds and fog, condensing it into droplets that drip to the ground and percolate into the island's groundwater system.

Scientists estimate that the forest captures more water from cloud interception than it receives as rainfall. Without the Laurisilva, Madeira's famous levadas — the ancient irrigation channels that carry water across the island — would run dry. The agricultural terraces that produce Madeira's wine, bananas, and vegetables depend entirely on the forest's ability to harvest the Atlantic clouds.

Wildlife of the Laurisilva

The Laurisilva is a biodiversity hotspot of global importance. Cut off from mainland Europe for millions of years, evolution has taken its own path here — producing species found nowhere else on Earth.

Endemic Birds

The most iconic resident is the Trocaz Pigeon (Columba trocaz) — a large, silver-necked pigeon found only on Madeira. Once hunted to near-extinction, now protected and recovering, it depends entirely on the Laurisilva for its food (Til berries) and nesting. The forest is also home to the Madeira Firecrest (Regulus madeirensis), a tiny jewel-bright bird endemic to the island, and the Madeira Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs maderensis).

Endemic Plants

At least 76 vascular plant species endemic to Madeira are found within the Laurisilva boundaries. The forest floor supports over 100 species of mosses and liverworts, many found nowhere else. Ferns of extraordinary variety carpet every surface — tree trunks, rocks, the forest floor — in shades of green that defy description.

Invertebrates

The Laurisilva harbours over 500 endemic invertebrate species — beetles, spiders, snails, and insects that evolved in isolation over millions of years. Ground beetles (Carabidae) are particularly diverse, with around 210 species including 50 endemics. Many remain scientifically unnamed and undescribed.

Fanal — The Heart of the Magic

Of all the places to experience the Laurisilva, Fanal is the most extraordinary. Located on the Paul da Serra plateau in northwest Madeira, at around 1,000–1,100 metres altitude, Fanal is where the forest meets open grassland — and where centuries of wind and cloud have sculpted the laurel trees into forms that look like they belong in a fairy tale.

The trees of Fanal are ancient. Their trunks are massive, twisted, draped in thick moss. Their branches spread wide, reaching horizontally in ways that seem to defy gravity. In the morning fog — which rolls in from the Atlantic most days — they become almost ghostly, their forms half-dissolved in white mist. Cows graze peacefully among them, indifferent to the centuries around them.

Fanal is about 1 hour's drive from Funchal, via the Via Rápida (VR1) motorway heading west, then up through the mountains. The road to the plateau is accessible by normal car but requires careful driving in fog. GPS coordinates for Fanal parking: 32.8014° N, 17.2038° W.

Hiking Trails Through the Laurisilva

Best Time to Visit the Laurel Forest

The Laurisilva is extraordinary in every season — but each offers a different experience:

• Spring (March–May): The forest is at its most lush and green. Wildflowers emerge at the edges of the plateau. Bird activity is highest during breeding season. Fog is frequent in the mornings.
• Summer (June–August): Drier and clearer at lower altitudes, but the plateau often remains in cloud. Peak season — trails are busier. Book accommodation in advance.
• Autumn (September–November): Softer light, fewer visitors, warm sea. The Til trees produce their berries — watch for Trocaz Pigeons feasting in the canopy.
• Winter (December–February): The most atmospheric season for Fanal — persistent fog, dramatic light, almost no tourists. The forest floor is carpeted in wet moss. Bring waterproofs.

Threats to the Forest Today

Despite its UNESCO protection, the Laurisilva faces serious challenges in the 21st century. Invasive plant species — particularly ginger lily (Hedychium gardnerianum) and Kahili ginger — have invaded forest margins and clearings, competing with native species for light and space. Invasive animals, including rats and feral cats, prey on native birds and their eggs.

Climate change poses a longer-term threat. Rising temperatures and changing rainfall patterns are altering the fog patterns that the forest depends on. Scientists predict the forest will shift to higher altitudes as conditions change — potentially losing lower-altitude areas while gaining ground on the highest peaks.

Conservation efforts are ongoing. The Madeira Natural Park authority, working with UNESCO and IUCN, manages invasive species removal programmes, monitors endemic wildlife populations, and restricts human access to the most sensitive areas. The forests of the island's north coast remain among the least disturbed temperate forests in the world.

Frequently Asked Questions